Time Stands Still at Domaine Valga

Writing

Nathalie Le Coz

To get to Domaine Valga, one must turn its back to the River and head towards the mountains, towards Saint-Gabriel. Albeit worn out, the Appalachian rock knob stands out and commands respect. Mount Comi appears as the high point while the massif eats up a large portion of the landscape.

Near Saint-Donat-de-Rimouski, the path starts to wind. The forest cover gets thicker, saturated as the ascension continues. Made up mainly of broadleaf trees, the woods shine bright with hues of deep reds and rich yellows as the first days of October work their colourful magic. The canopy leaves room for vivid gaps of deep blue skies. Then, the pace and heartbeat almost magically slow down. No more rush, no more hustle and bustle. On foot, it’s easy to imagine this very same environment turning completely white, then exploding in a pattern of tender greens before turning to a dark, almost impenetrable foliage. And just like that, I’ve arrived.

A few log cabins steadfastly border a small lake that resembles a bright, twinkling eye. A good-humoured man welcomes me and immediately pulls out two chairs on the sunny spot of the deck. His story is about to begin.

Éric Gagné was working as a forester, but one day he decided his life would take on a new turn. His missionary uncle had told him in passing about a piece of land owned by the Frères du Sacré-Cœur that would soon be up for sale—a 92-acre estate with a splendid cedar forest. According to Éric, it only took a few conversations (and not that many arguments) to convince his girlfriend to get on board. And so, they set out to log the land, build an inn, and move in. Over twenty years ago, Domaine Valga was born.

But it took a while for guests to come. The business had a hard time rallying up tourists from the overflowing accommodations around Rimouski. But it didn’t take long for Éric to put his imagination and innovation to work. He met and forged strong ties with European tour operators working in the area and in no time, groups of hungry international tourists were knocking at the Domaine’s door looking for delicious typical Québec food and a warm atmosphere—a simple, yet generous experience. They then discovered the intimate cabins that offer an energizing respite from the rest of the world. In no time, many of them had become regulars. Locals soon followed, discovering the hebertism circuits and the canoes and kayaks available to them on the dock of Lac des Frères.

Éric’s son and daughter are now part of the family operation, and half of the Domaine is theirs. All business decisions are subject to family meetings during which each and every one of them puts their specific talents and interests to good use. Recently, Éric’s son decided to build a sugar shack and spearhead a new maple syrup operation. Together, the family will soon start construction on a new lot of cabins that will <welcome smaller groups of people and families.

Éric and his clan’s entrepreneurial spirit is undeniable, but also catered to their values and needs. The family is always looking to develop and evolve, but not at the expense of their own quality of life on the land—the Ganges share their forest with us. In return, visitors from all over come to Domaine Valga for their weddings, Christmas parties or corporate gatherings and feel right at home every time. Éric doesn’t hesitate to wake up at the crack of dawn to brew a fresh cup of coffee for the early birds who need to hop on the first ferry. Armed with an infectious joie de vivre, this innkeeper is convinced that tomorrow’s tourists will want to chat, to share a genuine real-life moment with others. Human connections are getting too few and far between, and this innkeeper is in the business of changing that.

The sun, on its way out, turned the corner of the deck throwing a shadow over us both. I rise from the chair, shake my host’s hand, and leave knowing that this innkeeper will take very good care of tomorrow’s tourists.